how to make dye with St John’s wort

  • cutting the plant

    It is just past midsummer and the plants are beginning to bloom. This year I am not planning to pick the flowers but will rather use the plant tops.

  • in the soup

    I cut the plants into pieces as small as I have patience for and then fill the pot with tap water (minerals are good). It simmers for about an hour.

  • the tea

    It smells wonderful (to me) as it cooks; when it’s done it’s pretty murky.

  • sorry for the wonky photo angle

    I invariably spill when I strain, so this step is done outside. You can re-cook the greens for another dye batch, but I usually compost them after the first go.

  • in the pot

    Here’s the dye, ready for mordanted yarn. The color is a deep brownish red.

  • yarn added

    The yarn just went in and the dye will be heated very slowly to a simmer.

  • after about 45 minutes

    The cooking portion of the day is nearly complete. I like to let my yarn sit in the dye overnight.

  • one plain, on mordanted

    After a night in the dyebath, I left the top skein as it was, but I put the other skein in an iron mordant bath. About five minutes in that bath produced the green skein below.

  • try a second exhaust

    The second exhaust with St. John's Wort can give great (and often different) colors. I mordanted this Paton's sock yarn with alum and cream of tartar and then put it in the same dye pot that I used above, and then I followed the dyeing with an iron mordant.

  • paton's sock yarn in muslin, again

    I mordanted it with alum and cream of tartar and dyed it with late summer St John's Wort flower heads. The left skein I left alone but with the skein on the right I followed the dyeing with an iron mordant and got the happy brown.